Esse Skincare Launched New Bio-Based Product
The new Barrier Rescue cream uses plant-derived propionic acid to help consumers maintain a balanced skin microbiome.
Updated on Oct. 8, 2026 in Beauty
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Esse Skincare has released Esse Barrier Rescue, a product formulated with 100% bio-based propionic acid. This ingredient, which is COSMOS-certified, is now available to consumers and professionals worldwide.
Why it matters
By utilizing propionic acid derived from non-food agricultural co-products, this partnership offers an alternative to traditional, petrochemical-based ingredients in skincare. The compound is intended to support a balanced skin microbiome.
The propionic acid used is verified as 100% bio-based and holds COSMOS certification. While the ingredient is sourced through natural fermentation of agricultural co-products, independent long-term clinical efficacy trials for this specific formulation remain unpublished.
The players
Esse Skincare
A South Africa-based skincare company that develops products focused on maintaining the skin microbiome.
AFYREN
A French company founded in 2012 that specializes in producing bio-based molecules through the fermentation of agricultural co-products.
The details
The propionic acid in Esse Barrier Rescue is produced at the AFYREN NEOXY plant in France through a fermentation process. This method valorizes non-food agricultural co-products, transforming them into high-value biochemicals. The molecule is designed to support the skin's microbial environment by helping maintain a balanced microbiome.
Timeline
AFYREN was founded in 2012.
AFYREN listed on Euronext Growth Paris in 2021.
AFYREN employed 140 people at the end of 2025.
The product launch was announced on October 8, 2026.
Health Landscape
The introduction of this ingredient follows the growing industry shift toward utilizing COSMOS-certified, bio-based components to replace traditional petrochemical inputs. This evolution reflects a broader movement in cosmetic chemistry toward sustainable sourcing without compromising skin-specific functions.
If you are interested in how microbiome-friendly products impact your skin health, consider discussing the use of plant-derived versus synthetic ingredients with your dermatologist. It is worth noting that while bio-based ingredients aim to support the skin's natural balance, individual reactions can vary.
The takeaway
The move toward bio-based skincare ingredients highlights an increasing focus on microbiome-supporting formulations. Readers should keep an eye on ingredient labels to identify which products align with their personal preference for sustainably sourced components.
Further reading
Learn more about the latest innovations in Beauty research.
More information
Review company details and product documentation on the AFYREN company information portal.
Source note: This article includes information reported by Renewable Carbon News.
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